Tinto Tapas Espana

Tinto was something I had been looking forward to all week long. When I arrived at the restaurant on Santa Monica Boulevard the appearance from outside was pretty unassuming. Yet when I opened the door I was impressed by the layout and design. The bar area offered oversized seats that were inviting, but just beyond the dividing wall with high arches gave way to the red brick dining area where brilliant chandeliers were set high enough to create a relaxed mood that could as effectively 

 Normally I turn away from Sangria when other drinks are available. I tend to find most Sangrias lack a balance between the fruit and the wine that makes the drink seem like two drinks that don't belong together. Tonight I tasted the old family recipe that was wisely handed down. The pairing of the fruit and wine in the Tinto sangria was limber and unified. Of the white and red served I would give a slight edge to the red, though both were delicious. 

 To I wouldn't have to make any choices I asked if we could have a Noah's Ark of tapas where we just have two of everything. The anticipation was building as our bright and enthusiastic waitress Lauren brought out the first installment. A small plate offered a dried apricot, a piece of manchego cheese and a chili pepper for two. This toothpick bonded treat was far from tiny in terms of taste. The sweetness of the apricot was subtle and did not confuse the slight heat of the pepper. The textures were so varied, with the firmness of the pepper and the apricot contrasted nicely with the soft zesty cheese. 

 Next we were served thinly cut Serrano ham with manchego cheese and a baguette slices with a mild tomato and olive oil sauce. I couldn't help but pair the bread with the ham and cheese. Simple rarely feels this smart. 

 At this point I knew two types of Spanish omelets were coming next and from what I had seen up to this point, I was excited for the chef to raise the stakes. We had two kinds of omelet; the Espanola and the Vasca with an aioli sauce on the side. The Espanola was plain old eggs, potatoes and salt. The potatoes held their form on the plate just long enough to make it to your mouth where they practically collapse. The Vasca combined shrimp, peas and chorizo and the most splendid way that left me wanting more. 

Bacon wrapped dates are one of my greater weaknesses which was only made more pronounced this evening when I learned Tinto's stuffs theirs with a mellow blue cheese. The Madjool dates were as long as my thumb and twice as thick. I sliced into it carefully as if I were performing surgery. I took a small bite not even waiting for the Cabrales cheese to cool. There is something so magnificent about a grilled date; it was almost as soft as the liquefied cheese and infused with the flavor of the smoky bacon. If you go to Tinto's for one thing....well you'll end up with several, but if you go there intending to get one thing, this is it! 

 Croquetas de Jamon came next and made a claim to unseat the last dish as my favorite. These perfectly browned fritters were filled with cubed Spanish ham and a creamy béchamel sauce that made me thankful for the French crossing the Pyrenees. 

With the level of authenticity high enough to stamp my passport, I wondered if the vegetarian dishes would bring the same level of joy as the carnivorous delights that came before. The absence of meat far from constituted a deficiency in our continued amazement. The Setas al Ajillo combined wild and cultivated mushrooms in a white sauce with garlic, parsley and chili flakes that I could not get enough of. The Escalivada brought roasted eggplant, tomatoes, bell peppers, onions and garlic together in olive oil and sherry. This dish was served cold and had the essence of a home cooked meal that was so good that you'd eat it as a same-day leftover without bothering to heat it up. 

Thankfully, I didn't have to make a choice for dessert. Instead we were obliged by the sampler. Just as the deserts came, Lauren brought us each a dessert filled Champaign flute with a mint leaf on top. This was the delightful Sorbet de la Limon al Cava, which blended cava with lemon ice cream and fresh mint for an extraordinary taste. Of all the marvelous things I had this evening, this was the most special. Serving this drink almost wasn't fair to the other desserts. Yet, somehow I was able to stave off the appearance of impartiality by cleaning each of the four small servings. The Crema Catalana was like a crème brule, but thicker than the traditional custard. The rice pudding was sweet and had just the right amount of cinnamon. The vanilla ice cream was far from plain and tasted as if it were made on site. Of the four, my favorite was the chocolate tart in raspberry coulis. This flourless cake was so thick and decadent with freshly whipped cream and lively with the addition of the seedless raspberry puree.